Onano Neighborhood Cafe in Rosemary Beach is on the ground floor of The Pensione, a block from the beach and the beautiful azure water of the Gulf of Mexico. Owned and operated by Penny and Mark Dragonette, specializing in Northern Italian cuisine and featuring fresh local seafood, choice beef and exciting foods from the Tuscany region of Italy. Tel. 850.231.2436

Reservations are recommended, specify your choice of indoor table, or outdoor table on the sidewalk. If you arrive early, enjoy a glass of wine at the gently curved bar which dominates the room.

We ordered a bottle of 2004 Da Vinci Chianti at $31 from the ample wine list. It was served with a tasty, coarse sliced bread typical of Tuscany - Onano Cafe is named after Mark's parents' hometown of Onano, north of Rome.

For our appetizer, we chose the Spinach & Mascarpone Raviolis ($16), which was presented nicely with a bit of roasted corn, chantrelle mushrooms, brown butter, thyme, and parmagiano-reggiano. The raviolis were firm and tasty, although we wished we had ordered another appetizer, as there were only a few. Other choices are Prosciutto di parma ($9), soup of the day ($8), fried calamari ($9), and fennel & crushed red pepper crusted sashimi-grade tuna ($16).

Several salads were offered ($9) but we went right to the entrees of Tagliatelle ($27) with firm gulf shrimp cooked perfectly along with ripe roasted tomatoes, spinach, parmagiano-reggiano, olive oil and preserved lemon. The lemon is preserved by steeping and turning for 14 days in a salt brine.

Our other entree was the Veal Scallopini ($29). I was assured it was tasty (but not as good as Borago's). I did try the accompanying whipped potato puree with mushrooms, baby spinach, marjoram au jus, and garlic - it was excellent with perfect texture.

In addition to a couple of daily specials, other entree selections include Spaghetti & Meatballs with feta and basil ($21); Tuscan Sea Scallops with ginger & lemon grass over orzo with tomatoes and fresh basil ($28); a braised fresh fish with potato gnochi ($30); and an oven roasted beef tenderloin with pesto polenta cake, gorgonzola, pancetta, and wild mushroom ragu' demi glace.($36).

Overall it was a very enjoyable dining experience on Scenic 30-A with excellent service and a wonderful atmosphere, made all the better with pre and post dinner walks through the fascinating town of Rosemary Beach and barefoot in the gentle, moonlit surf.

I also recommend arriving early and having a glass of wine in the courtyard next door - featuring 50 wines by the glass and a wide variety of upscale wines from around the world. They also offer gourmet cheeses from Europe and America priced by the pound or served by the plate. Enjoy your wine and cheese in a beautiful and unique open-air courtyard. Wireless high speed internet available. Open daily from 11 am - 11 pm. Cheers! Tel. 850.231.1219